When I realized that my cousin’s wedding would be the week before my birthday, I decided to use the opportunity to do something special. I wanted to stop in Europe on my way home from Israel, but it took forever (just ask my sisters, who were subjected to this on our group chat) to decide where to go. My first thought was Paris but then I decided that the city was too big to make a side trip worthwhile (if I go to Paris, which I’d like to do, I’d go for about a week). Finally I got some clarity about what made the most sense and booked my trip to Prague! And it was so, so nice. I am now a huge Prague fan!
I left Israel on an early morning flight on Sunday. I was shocked to see how wild the airport was in middle of the night, and then someone told me most flights from Israel to Europe are within a short window of time in the morning. That made sense. (I always love looking at the other check-in lines to see where people are going; makes me want to book another trip pronto!). When I was finally checked in, I bought a sandwich from one of the mehadrin places and had a really early breakfast.
I landed in Prague around 9:30 in the morning. I went from the airport to my friend’s cousin’s Airbnb (yes, my friend’s cousin was in Prague with her friend at the same time and we joined up to do a tour of the Jewish Quarter together). I left my tote bag with their luggage and then went off on my own for an hour because we still had some time before the tour.
I whipped out the ol’ Rick Steves and enjoyed a self-guided tour of part of the Old Town. The Old Town Square looks like a fairytale! Prague has the most beautiful towers and rooflines.
Then I met the others with our guide. The tour was three hours; special highlights included the children of Theresienstadt’s art exhibit, the famed Altneu shul, the aleph-beis clock(!) on the old Jewish Town Hall ticking from right to left since the 1700’s, and of course the kevarim in the old Jewish cemetery (most famously, Maharal and Kli Yakar).
Afterwards I had a (really late) lunch at Shelanu. Then I picked up the Old Town walk and completed the Wenceslas walk as well. I did a guided tour of the Municipal House (Art Nouveau concert hall) and walked down to the Charles Bridge just for a glimpse. Then I had supper at Chabad Grill. I was soo tired at that point, I only had energy for an appetizer. And then I went back to my hotel and went to bed!
The next morning I walked to the Charles Bridge and went up the bridge tower on the Old Town side. Then I walked across the bridge to the Lesser Town. I went to the Wallenstein Garden as I had read that there are white(!) peacocks roaming around; I did not see white peacocks but I did see the other kind, which was so much fun. Then I went to the Mucha Museum, which I really enjoyed. I was only there for about 30 minutes because it’s really small (I didn’t watch the film). After that I intended to go to the Cold War Museum but the tour was full so I put my name down for the later tour.
I decided to try my luck and went back to the old Jewish cemetery even though I had used up my admission the previous day (there is one ticket to all sites of interest in the Jewish quarter that allows you one-time admission to each; I didn’t really want to pay for a new ticket since the only place I wanted to go again was the cemetery). The guard was nice and let me in when I told him I just wanted to pray. The previous day we had only had a few minutes and I wanted to daven more, so this opportunity was very special.
Then I walked back to the Old Town Square. I did a guided tour of the Old Town Hall (which was honestly quite grisly, and one tour too many), and went up to the tower for a view of the Square from above. (If you go to Prague and don’t want to go up another tower, just ask if you can see the mosaic on the ground floor of the Town Hall; it is truly a must-see).
Then I went to the Cold War Museum (I walked miles both days of my trip; I could have tried to use the tram system but I just never felt like it and walked everywhere). This museum is located in a former fallout shelter underneath a hotel that the Communist party used to spy on guests in the hotel. The museum portrays other aspects of life under Communism including the impossibility of leaving, interrogations, etc… I have mixed feelings about this tour. It was disturbing and a part of me wishes I hadn’t gone but I also appreciate that I got really, really clear on the brutality of Communism.
I had to lighten the mood 🙂 and eat, so I went back to Shelanu for supper. Then I walked back to the Charles Bridge and went up the bridge tower on the Lesser Town side for views of the Old Town, walked around that neighborhood a bit and sat on a bench by the river for awhile. Finally I went back to my hotel and went to bed.
In the morning, I (a bit sadly) finished packing and ordered an Uber. I first went to the other old Jewish cemetery to the kever of the Noda B’Yehuda. Then I went to the airport for the journey home.
This was such a special trip and I’m so grateful I was able to do it. I never felt lonely and enjoyed being in my own company. (I don’t know what a longer trip would have felt like). Next time (I always need to do this), I’d like to explore the Castle Quarter, especially Golden Lane, take a boat ride on the river, and perhaps visit the Museum of Communism which, I presume, has exits (lol).
Please share if you have any travel plans — or dreams — or if you’ve been someplace interesting!
